约翰逊4-6-89

child was christened in Welsh.We went down by the stream to see a prospect, in which I had no part. Wethen saw a brass work, where the lapis calaminaris[1203] is gathered,broken, washed from the earth and the lead, though how the lead wasseparated I did not see; then calcined, afterwards ground fine, and thenmixed by fire with the copper.We saw several strong fires with melting pots, but the construction ofthe fire-places I did not learn.At a copper-work which receives its pigs of copper, I think, fromWarrington, we saw a plate of copper put hot between steel rollers, andspread thin; I know not whether the upper roller was set to a certaindistance, as I suppose, or acted only by its weight.At an iron-work I saw round bars formed by a knotched hammer and anvil.There I saw a bar of about half an inch, or more, square cut with shearsworked by water, and then beaten hot into a thinner bar. The hammers allworked, as they were, by water, acting upon small bodies, moved veryquick, as quick as by the hand.I then saw wire drawn, and gave a shilling. I have enlarged mynotions[1204], though not being able to see the movements, and havingnot time to peep closely, I know less than I might. I was less weary,and had better breath, as I walked farther.AUGUST 4.Ruthin Castle is still a very noble ruin; all the walls still remain, sothat a compleat platform, and elevations, not very imperfect, may betaken. It encloses a square of about thirty yards. The middle space wasalways open.The wall is, I believe, about thirty feet high, very thick, flanked withsix round towers, each about eighteen feet, or less, in diameter. Onlyone tower had a chimney, so that there was[1205] commodity of living. Itwas only a place of strength. The garrison had, perhaps, tents inthe area.Stapylton's house is pretty[1206]: there are pleasing shades about it,with a constant spring that supplies a cold bath. We then went to seea Cascade.I trudged unwillingly, and was not sorry to find it dry. The water was,however, turned on, and produced a very striking cataract. They are paidan hundred pounds a year for permission to divert the stream to themines. The river, for such it may be termed[1207], rises from a singlespring, which, like that of Winifred's, is covered with a building.We called then at another house belonging to Mr. Lloyd, which made ahandsome appearance. This country seems full of very splendid houses.Mrs. Thrale lost her purse. She expressed so much uneasiness, that Iconcluded the sum to be very great; but when I heard of only sevenguineas, I was glad to find that she had so much sensibility of money.I could not drink this day either coffee or tea after dinner. I know notwhen I missed before.AUGUST 5.Last night my sleep was remarkably quiet. I know not whether by fatiguein walking, or by forbearance of tea[1208].I gave the ipecacuanha[1209]. Vin. emet. had failed; so had tartar emet.I dined at Mr. Myddleton's, of Gwaynynog. The house was a gentleman'shouse, below the second rate, perhaps below the third, built of stoneroughly cut. The rooms were low, and the passage above stairs gloomy,but the furniture was good. The table was well supplied, except that thefruit was bad. It was truly the dinner of a country gentleman. Twotables were filled with company, not inelegant.After dinner, the talk was of preserving the Welsh language. I offeredthem a scheme. Poor Evan Evans was mentioned, as incorrigibly addictedto strong drink. Worthington[1210] was commended. Myddleton is the onlyman, who, in Wales, has talked to me of literature. I wish he were trulyzealous. I recommended the republication of David ap Rhees'sWelsh Grammar.Two sheets of _Hebrides_ came to me for correction to-day, F.G.[1211]AUGUST 6.I corrected the two sheets. My sleep last night was disturbed.Washing at Chester and here, 5_s_. 1_d_.I did not read.I saw to-day more of the out-houses at Lleweney. It is, in the whole, avery spacious house.AUGUST 7.I was at Church at Bodfari. There was a service used for a sick woman,not canonically, but such as I have heard, I think, formerly atLichfield, taken out of the visitation.The Church is mean, but has a square tower for the bells, rather toostately for the Church.OBSERVATIONS.Dixit injustus, Ps. 36, has no relation to the English[1212].Preserve us, Lord, has the name of Robert Wisedome, 1618.--Barker's_Bible_[1213].Battologiam ab iteratione, recte distinguit Erasmus.--_Mod. OrandiDeum_, p. 56-144[1214].Southwell's Thoughts of his own death[1215].Baudius on Erasmus[1216].AUGUST 8.The Bishop and much company dined at Lleweney. Talk of Greek--and of thearmy[1217]. The Duke of Marlborough's officers useless. Read_Phocylidis_[1218], distinguished the paragraphs. I looked in Leland: anunpleasant book of mere hints.Lichfield School, ten pounds; and five pounds from the Hospital[1219].AUGUST 10.At Lloyd's, of Maesmynnan; a good house, and a very large walled garden.I read Windus's Account of his _Journey to Mequinez_, and of Stewart'sEmbassy[1220]. I had read in the morning Wasse's _Greek Trochaics toBentley_. They appeared inelegant, and made with difficulty. The LatinElegy contains only common-place, hastily expressed, so far as I haveread, for it is long. They seem to be the verses of a scholar, who hasno practice of writing. The Greek I did not always fully understand. Iam in doubt about the sixth and last paragraphs, perhaps they are notprinted right, for [Greek: eutokon] perhaps [Greek: eustochon.] q?The following days I read here and there. The _Bibliotheca Literaria_was so little supplied with papers that could interest curiosity, thatit could not hope for long continuance[1221]. Wasse, the chiefcontributor, was an unpolished scholar, who, with much literature, hadno art or elegance of diction, at least in English.AUGUST 14.At Bodfari I heard the second lesson read, and the sermon preached inWelsh. The text was pronounced both in Welsh and English. The sound ofthe Welsh, in a continued discourse, is not unpleasant.[Greek: Brosis oligae][1222].The letter of Chrysostom, against transubstantiation. Erasmus to theNuns, full of mystick notions and allegories.AUGUST 15.Imbecillitas genuum non sine aliquantulo doloris inter ambulandum quem aprandio magis sensi[1223].AUGUST 18.We left Lleweney, and went forwards on our journey.We came to Abergeley, a mean town, in which little but Welsh is spoken,and divine service is seldom performed in English.Our way then lay to the sea-side, at the foot of a mountain, calledPenmaen Rhos. Here the way was so steep, that we walked on the loweredge of the hill, to meet the coach, that went upon a road higher on thehill. Our walk was not long, nor unpleasant: the longer I walk, the lessI feel its inconvenience. As I grow warm, my breath mends, and I thinkmy limbs grow pliable.We then came to Conway Ferry, and passed in small boats, with somepassengers from the stage coach, among whom were an Irish gentlewoman,with two maids, and three little children, of which, the youngest wasonly a few months old. The tide did not serve the large ferry-boat, andtherefore our coach could not very soon follow us. We were, therefore,to stay at the Inn. It is now the day of the Race at Conway, and thetown was so full of company, that no money could purchase lodgings. Wewere not very readily supplied with cold dinner. We would have staid atConway if we could have found entertainment, for we were afraid ofpassing Penmaen Mawr, over which lay our way to Bangor, but by brightdaylight, and the delay of our coach made our departure necessarilylate. There was, however, no stay on any other terms, than of sitting upall night.The poor Irish lady was still more distressed. Her children wanted rest.She would have been content with one bed, but, for a time, none could behad. Mrs. Thrale gave her what help she could. At last two gentlemenwere persuaded to yield up their room, with two beds, for which she gavehalf a guinea. Our coach was at last brought, and we set out with someanxiety, but we came to Penmaen Mawr by daylight; and found a way,lately made, very easy, and very safe.[1224] It was cut smooth, andenclosed between parallel walls; the outer of which secures thepassenger from the precipice, which is deep and dreadful. This wall ishere and there broken, by mischievous wantonness.[1225] The inner wallpreserves the road from the loose stones, which the shattered steepabove it would pour down. That side of the mountain seems to have asurface of loose stones, which every accident may crumble. The old roadwas higher, and must have been very formidable. The sea beats at thebottom of the way.At evening the moon shone eminently bright; and our thoughts of dangerbeing now past, the rest of our journey was very pleasant. At an hoursomewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we found a very mean inn, andhad some difficulty to obtain lodging. I lay in a room, where the otherbed had two men.AUGUST 19.We obtained boats to convey us to Anglesey, and saw Lord Bulkeley'sHouse, and Beaumaris Castle.I was accosted by Mr. Lloyd, the Schoolmaster of Beaumaris, who had seenme at University College; and he, with Mr. Roberts, the Register ofBangor, whose boat we borrowed, accompanied us. Lord Bulkeley's houseis very mean, but his garden garden is spacious, and shady with largetrees and smaller interspersed. The walks are straight, and cross eachother, with no variety of plan; but they have a pleasing coolness, andsolemn gloom, and extend to a great length.The castle is a mighty pile; the outward wall has fifteen round towers,besides square towers at the angles. There is then a void space betweenthe wall and the Castle, which has an area enclosed with a wall, whichagain has towers, larger than those of the outer wall. The towers of theinner Castle are, I think, eight. There is likewise a Chapel entire,built upon an arch as I suppose, and beautifully arched with a stoneroof, which is yet unbroken. The entrance into the Chapel is about eightor nine feet high, and was, I suppose, higher, when there was no rubbishin the area.This Castle corresponds with all the representations of romancingnarratives. Here is not wanting the private passage, the dark cavity,the deep dungeon, or the lofty tower. We did not discover the Well. Thisis the most compleat view that I have yet had of an old Castle.[1226] Ithad a moat.The Towers.We went to Bangor.AUGUST 20.We went by water from Bangor to Caernarvon, where we met Paoli and SirThomas Wynne. Meeting by chance with one Troughton,[1227] an intelligentand loquacious wanderer, Mr. Thrale invited him to dinner. He attendedus to the Castle, an edifice of stupendous magnitude and strength; ithas in it all that we observed at Beaumaris, and much greaterdimensions: many of the smaller rooms floored with stone are entire; ofthe larger rooms, the beams and planks are all left: this is the stateof all buildings left to time. We mounted the Eagle Tower by one hundredand sixty-nine steps, each of ten inches. We did not find the Well; nordid I trace the Moat; but moats there were, I believe, to all castles onthe plain, which not only hindered access, but prevented mines. We sawbut a very small part of this mighty ruin, and in all these oldbuildings, the subterraneous works are concealed by the rubbish.To survey this place would take much time: I did not think there hadbeen such buildings; it surpassed my ideas.AUGUST 21.We were at Church; the service in the town is always English; at theparish Church at a small distance, always Welsh. The town has bydegrees, I suppose, been brought nearer to the sea side.We received an invitation to Dr. Worthington. We then went to dinner atSir Thomas Wynne's,--the dinner mean, Sir Thomas civil, his Ladynothing.[1228] Paoli civil.We supped with Colonel Wynne's Lady, who lives in one of the towers ofthe Castle.I have not been very well.AUGUST 22.We went to visit Bodville, the place where Mrs. Thrale was born; and theChurches called Tydweilliog and Llangwinodyl, which she holds byimpropriation.We had an invitation to the house of Mr. Griffiths of Bryn o dol, wherewe found a small neat new built house, with square rooms: the walls areof unhewn stone, and therefore thick; for the stones not fitting withexactness, are not strong without great thickness. He had planted agreat deal of young wood in walks. Fruit trees do not thrive; but havinggrown a few years, reach some barren stratum and wither.We found Mr. Griffiths not at home; but the provisions were good. Mr.Griffiths came home the next day. He married a lady who has a house andestate at [Llanver], over against Anglesea, and near Caernarvon, whereshe is more disposed, as it seems, to reside than at Bryn o dol.I read Lloyd's account of Mona, which he proves to be Anglesea.In our way to Bryn o dol, we saw at Llanerk a Church built crosswise,very spacious and magnificent for this country. We could not see theParson, and could get no intelligence about it.AUGUST 24.We went to see Bodville. Mrs. Thrale remembered the rooms, and wanderedover them with recollection of her childhood. This species of pleasureis always melancholy. The walk was cut down, and the pond was dry.Nothing was better.[1229]We surveyed the Churches, which are mean, and neglected to a degreescarcely imaginable. They have no pavement, and the earth is full ofholes. The seats are rude benches; the Altars have no rails. One of themhas a breach in the roof. On the desk, I think, of each lay a folioWelsh Bible of the black letter, which the curate cannot easilyread.[1230]Mr. Thrale purposes to beautify the Churches, and if he prospers, willprobably restore the tithes. The two parishes are, Llangwinodyl andTydweilliog.[1231] The Methodists are here very prevalent. A betterchurch will impress the people with more reverence of publick worship.Mrs. Thrale visited a house where she had been used to drink milk, whichwas left, with an estate of two hundred pounds a year, by one Lloyd, toa married woman who lived with him.We went to Pwllheli, a mean old town, at the extremity of the country.Here we bought something, to remember the place.AUGUST 25.We returned to Caernarvon, where we ate with Mrs. Wynne.AUGUST 26.We visited, with Mrs. Wynne, Llyn Badarn and Llyn Beris, two lakes,joined by a narrow strait. They are formed by the waters which fall fromSnowdon and the opposite mountains. On the side of Snowdon are theremains of a large fort, to which we climbed with great labour. I wasbreathless and harassed. The Lakes have no great breadth, so that theboat is always near one bank or the other._Note_. Queeny's goats, one hundred and forty-nine, I think.[1232]AUGUST 27.We returned to Bangor, where Mr. Thrale was lodged at Mr. Roberts's, theRegister.AUGUST 28.We went to worship at the Cathedral. The quire is mean, the service wasnot well read.AUGUST 29.We came to Mr. Myddelton's, of Gwaynynog, to the first place, as myMistress observed, where we have been welcome._Note_. On the day when we visited Bodville, we turned to the house ofMr. Griffiths, of Kefnamwycllh, a gentleman of large fortune, remarkablefor having made great and sudden improvements in his seat and estate. Hehas enclosed a large garden with a brick wall. He is considered as a manof great accomplishments. He was educated in literature at theUniversity, and served some time in the army, then quitted hiscommission, and retired to his lands. He is accounted a good man, andendeavours to bring the people to church.In our way from Bangor to Conway, we passed again the new road upon theedge of Penmaen Mawr, which would be very tremendous, but that the wallshuts out the idea of danger. In the wall are several breaches, made, asMr. Thrale very reasonably conjectures, by fragments of rocks which rolldown the mountain, broken perhaps by frost, or worn through by rain.We then viewed Conway.To spare the horses at Penmaen Rhos, between Conway and St. Asaph, wesent the coach over the road across the mountain with Mrs. Thrale, whohad been tired with a walk sometime before; and I, with Mr. Thrale andMiss, walked along the edge, where the path is very narrow, and muchencumbered by little loose stones, which had fallen down, as we thought,upon the way since we passed it before.At Conway we took a short survey of the Castle, which afforded usnothing new. It is larger than that of Beaumaris, and less than that ofCaernarvon. It is built upon a rock so high and steep, that it is evennow very difficult of access. We found a round pit, which was called theWell; it is now almost filled, and therefore dry. We found the Well inno other castle. There are some remains of leaden pipes at Caernarvon,which, I suppose, only conveyed water from one part of the building toanother. Had the garrison had no other supply, the Welsh, who must knowwhere the pipes were laid, could easily have cut them.AUGUST 29.We came to the house of Mr. Myddelton, (on Monday,) where we staid toSeptember 6, and were very kindly entertained. How we spent our time, Iam not very able to tell[1233].We saw the wood, which is diversified and romantick.SEPTEMBER 4, SUNDAY.