约翰逊4-6-69

stones. We passed over a spot, which is appropriated for the exercisingground. In 1745, a hundred fighting men were reviewed here, as Malcolmtold me, who was one of the officers that led them to the field[505].They returned home all but about fourteen. What a princely thing is itto be able to furnish such a band! Rasay has the true spirit of a chief.He is, without exaggeration, a father to his people.There is plenty of lime-stone in the island, a great quarry offree-stone, and some natural woods, but none of any age, as they cut thetrees for common country uses. The lakes, of which there are many, arewell stocked with trout. Malcolm catched one of four-and-twenty poundsweight in the loch next to Dun Can, which, by the way, is certainly aDanish name, as most names of places in these islands are.The old castle, in which the family of Rasay formerly resided, issituated upon a rock very near the sea. The rock is not one mass ofstone, but a concretion of pebbles and earth, so firm that it does notappear to have mouldered. In this remnant of antiquity I found nothingworthy of being noticed, except a certain accommodation rarely to befound at the modern houses of Scotland, and which Dr. Johnson and Isought for in vain at the Laird of Rasay's new built mansion, wherenothing else was wanting. I took the liberty to tell the Laird it was ashame there should be such a deficiency in civilized times. Heacknowledged the justice of the remark. But perhaps some generations maypass before the want is supplied. Dr. Johnson observed to me, howquietly people will endure an evil, which they might at any time veryeasily remedy; and mentioned as an instance, that the present family ofRasay had possessed the island for more than four hundred years, andnever made a commodious landing place, though a few men with pickaxesmight have cut an ascent of stairs out of any part of the rock in aweek's time[506].The north end of Rasay is as rocky as the south end. From it I saw thelittle isle of Fladda, belonging to Rasay, all fine green ground;--andRona, which is of so rocky a soil that it appears to be a pavement. Iwas told however that it has a great deal of grass in the interstices.The Laird has it all in his own hands. At this end of the island ofRasay is a cave in a striking situation. It is in a recess of a greatcleft, a good way up from the sea. Before it the ocean roars, beingdashed against monstrous broken rocks; grand and aweful _propugnacula_.On the right hand of it is a longitudinal cave, very low at theentrance, but higher as you advance. The sea having scooped it out, itseems strange and unaccountable that the interior part, where the watermust have operated with less force, should be loftier than that which ismore immediately exposed to its violence. The roof of it is all coveredwith a kind of petrifications formed by drops, which perpetually distilfrom it. The first cave has been a place of much safety. I find a greatdifficulty in describing visible objects[507]. I must own too that theold castle and cave, like many other things of which one hears much, didnot answer my expectations. People are every where apt to magnify thecuriosities of their country.This island has abundance of black cattle, sheep, and goats;--a goodmany horses, which are used for ploughing, carrying out dung, and otherworks of husbandry. I believe the people never ride. There are indeed noroads through the island, unless a few detached beaten tracks deservethat name. Most of the houses are upon the shore; so that all the peoplehave little boats, and catch fish. There is great plenty of potatoeshere. There are black-cock in extraordinary abundance, moorfowl, ploverand wild pigeons, which seemed to me to be the same as we have inpigeon-houses, in their state of nature. Rasay has no pigeon-house.There are no hares nor rabbits in the island, nor was there ever knownto be a fox[508], till last year, when one was landed on it by somemalicious person, without whose aid he could not have got thither, asthat animal is known to be a very bad swimmer. He has done muchmischief. There is a great deal of fish caught in the sea round Rasay;it is a place where one may live in plenty, and even in luxury. Thereare no deer; but Rasay told us he would get some.They reckon it rains nine months in the year in this island, owing toits being directly opposite to the western[509] coast of Sky, where thewatery clouds are broken by high mountains. The hills here, and indeedall the heathy grounds in general, abound with the sweet-smelling plantwhich the Highlanders call _gaul_, and (I think) with dwarf juniper inmany places. There is enough of turf, which is their fuel, and it isthought there is a mine of coal.--Such are the observations which I madeupon the island of Rasay, upon comparing it with the description givenby Martin, whose book we had with us.There has been an ancient league between the families of Macdonald andRasay. Whenever the head of either family dies, his sword is given tothe head of the other. The present Rasay has the late Sir JamesMacdonald's sword. Old Rasay joined the Highland army in 1745, butprudently guarded against a forfeiture, by previously conveying hisestate to the present gentleman, his eldest son[510]. On that occasion,Sir Alexander, father of the late Sir James Macdonald, was very friendlyto his neighbour. 'Don't be afraid, Rasay,' said he; 'I'll use all myinterest to keep you safe; and if your estate should be taken, I'll buyit for the family.'--And he would have done it.Let me now gather some gold dust,--some more fragments of Dr. Johnson'sconversation, without regard to order of time. He said, 'he thought veryhighly of Bentley; that no man now went so far in the kinds of learningthat he cultivated[511]; that the many attacks on him were owing toenvy, and to a desire of being known, by being in competition with sucha man; that it was safe to attack him, because he never answered hisopponents, but let them die away[512]. It was attacking a man who wouldnot beat them, because his beating them would make them live the longer.And he was right not to answer; for, in his hazardous method of writing,he could not but be often enough wrong; so it was better to leave thingsto their general appearance, than own himself to have erred inparticulars.' He said, 'Mallet was the prettiest drest puppet abouttown, and always kept good company[513]. That, from his way of talkinghe saw, and always said, that he had not written any part of the _Lifeof the Duke of Marlborough_, though perhaps he intended to do it at sometime, in which case he was not culpable in taking the pension[514]. Thathe imagined the Duchess furnished the materials for her _Apology_, whichHooke wrote, and Hooke furnished the words and the order, and all thatin which the art of writing consists. That the duchess had not superiorparts, but was a bold frontless woman, who knew how to make the most ofher opportunities in life. That Hooke got a _large_ sum of money forwriting her _Apology_[515]. That he wondered Hooke should have been weakenough to insert so profligate a maxim, as that to tell another's secretto one's friend is no breach of confidence[516]; though perhaps Hooke,who was a virtuous man[517], as his _History_ shews, and did not wishher well, though he wrote her _Apology_, might see its ill tendency, andyet insert it at her desire. He was acting only ministerially.' Iapprehended, however, that Hooke was bound to give his best advice. Ispeak as a lawyer. Though I have had clients whose causes I could not,as a private man, approve; yet, if I undertook them, I would not do anything that might be prejudicial to them, even at their desire, withoutwarning them of their danger.SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 11.It was a storm of wind and rain; so we could not set out. I wrote someof this _Journal_, and talked a while with Dr. Johnson in his room, andpassed the day, I cannot well say how, but very pleasantly. I was hereamused to find Mr. Cumberland's comedy of the _Fashionable Lover_[518],in which he has very well drawn a Highland character, Colin M'Cleod, ofthe same name with the family under whose roof we now were. Dr. Johnsonwas much pleased with the Laird of Macleod, who is indeed a mostpromising youth, and with a noble spirit struggles with difficulties,and endeavours to preserve his people. He has been left with anincumbrance of forty thousand pounds debt, and annuities to the amountof thirteen hundred pounds a year. Dr. Johnson said, 'If he gets thebetter of all this, he'll be a hero; and I hope he will[519]. I havenot met with a young man who had more desire to learn, or who has learntmore. I have seen nobody that I wish more to do a kindness to thanMacleod.' Such was the honourable elogium, on this young chieftain,pronounced by an accurate observer, whose praise was neverlightly bestowed.There is neither justice of peace, nor constable in Rasay. Sky has Mr.M'Cleod of Ulinish, who is the sheriff substitute, and no other justiceof peace. The want of the execution of justice is much felt among theislanders. Macleod very sensibly observed, that taking away theheritable jurisdictions[520] had not been of such service in the islandsas was imagined. They had not authority enough in lieu of them. Whatcould formerly have been settled at once, must now either take much timeand trouble, or be neglected. Dr. Johnson said, 'A country is in a badstate which is governed only by laws; because a thousand things occurfor which laws cannot provide, and where authority ought to interpose.Now destroying the authority of the chiefs set the people loose. It didnot pretend to bring any positive good, but only to cure some evil; andI am not well enough acquainted with the country to know what degree ofevil the heritable jurisdictions occasioned[521].' I maintained hardlyany; because the chiefs generally acted right, for their own sakes.Dr. Johnson was now wishing to move. There was not enough ofintellectual entertainment for him, after he had satisfied hiscuriosity, which he did, by asking questions, till he had exhausted theisland; and where there was so numerous a company, mostly young people,there was such a flow of familiar talk, so much noise, and so muchsinging and dancing, that little opportunity was left for his energetickconversation[522]. He seemed sensible of this; for when I told him howhappy they were at having him there, he said, 'Yet we have not been ableto entertain them much.' I was fretted, from irritability of nerves, byM'Cruslick's too obstreperous mirth. I complained of it to my friend,observing we should be better if he was, gone. 'No, Sir (said he). Heputs something into our society, and takes nothing out of it.' Dr.Johnson, however, had several opportunities of instructing the company;but I am sorry to say, that I did not pay sufficient attention to whatpassed, as his discourse now turned chiefly on mechanicks, agricultureand such subjects, rather than on science and wit. Last night Lady Rasayshewed him the operation of _wawking_ cloth, that is, thickening it inthe same manner as is done by a mill. Here it is performed by women, whokneel upon the ground, and rub it with both their hands, singing an Ersesong all the time. He was asking questions while they were performingthis operation, and, amidst their loud and wild howl, his voice washeard even in the room above[523].They dance here every night. The queen of our ball was the eldest MissMacleod, of Rasay, an elegant well-bred woman, and celebrated for herbeauty over all those regions, by the name of Miss Flora Rasay[524].There seemed to be no jealousy, no discontent among them; and the gaietyof the scene was such, that I for a moment doubted whether unhappinesshad any place in Rasay. But my delusion was soon dispelled, byrecollecting the following lines of my fellow-traveller:--'Yet hope not life from pain or danger free,Or think the doom of man revers'd for thee[525]!'SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 12.It was a beautiful day, and although we did not approve of travelling onSunday, we resolved to set out, as we were in an island from whence onemust take occasion as it serves. Macleod and Talisker sailed in a boatof Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest way to Dunvegan. M'Cruslickwent with them to Sconser, from whence he was to go to Slate, and so tothe main land. We were resolved to pay a visit at Kingsburgh, and seethe celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald, who is married to the present Mr.Macdonald of Kingsburgh; so took that road, though not so near. All thefamily, but Lady Rasay, walked down to the shore to see us depart. Rasayhimself went with us in a large boat, with eight oars, built in hisisland[526]; as did Mr. Malcolm M'Cleod, Mr. Donald M'Queen, Dr.Macleod, and some others. We had a most pleasant sail between Rasay andSky; and passed by a cave, where Martin says fowls were caught bylighting fire in the mouth of it. Malcolm remembers this. But it is notnow practised, as few fowls come into it.We spoke of Death. Dr. Johnson on this subject observed, that theboastings of some men, as to dying easily, were idle talk[527],proceeding from partial views. I mentioned Hawthornden's_Cypress-grove_, where it is said that the world is a mere show; andthat it is unreasonable for a man to wish to continue in the show-room,after he has seen it. Let him go cheerfully out, and give place to otherspectators[528]. JOHNSON. 'Yes, Sir, if he is sure he is to be well,after he goes out of it. But if he is to grow blind after he goes out ofthe show-room, and never to see any thing again; or if he does not knowwhither he is to go next, a man will not go cheerfully out of ashow-room. No wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks he is togo into a state of punishment. Nay, no wise man will be contented todie, if he thinks he is to fall into annihilation: for however unhappyany man's existence may be, he yet would rather have it, than not existat all[529]. No; there is no rational principle by which a man can diecontented, but a trust in the mercy of GOD, through the merits of JesusChrist.' This short sermon, delivered with an earnest tone, in a boatupon the sea, which was perfectly calm, on a day appropriated toreligious worship, while every one listened with an air of satisfaction,had a most pleasing effect upon my mind.Pursuing the same train of serious reflection, he added that it seemedcertain that happiness could not be found in this life, because so manyhad tried to find it, in such a variety of ways, and had not found it.We reached the harbour of Portree, in Sky, which is a large and goodone. There was lying in it a vessel to carry off the emigrants calledthe _Nestor_. It made a short settlement of the differences between achief and his clan:--'-----_Nestor_ componere litesInter Peleiden festinat & inter Atriden.'[530]We approached her, and she hoisted her colours. Dr. Johnsonand Mr. McQueen remained in the boat: Rasay and I, and therest went on board of her. She was a very pretty vessel, and, aswe were told, the largest in Clyde. Mr. Harrison, the captain,shewed her to us. The cabin was commodious, and even elegant.There was a little library, finely bound. _Portree_ has its namefrom King James the Fifth having landed there in his tourthrough the Western Isles, _Ree_ in Erse being King, as _Re_ is inItalian; so it is _Port Royal_. There was here a tolerable inn.On our landing, I had the pleasure of finding a letter fromhome; and there were also letters to Dr. Johnson and me, fromLord Elibank[531], which had been sent after us from Edinburgh.His Lordship's letter to me was as follows:--'DEAR BOSWELL,'I flew to Edinburgh the moment I heard of Mr. Johnson's arrival; but sodefective was my intelligence, that I came too late. 'It is but justiceto believe, that I could never forgive myself, nor deserve to beforgiven by others, if I was to fail in any mark of respect to that verygreat genius.--I hold him in the highest veneration; for that veryreason I was resolved to take no share in the merit, perhaps guilt, ofinticing him to honour this country with a visit.--I could not persuademyself there was any thing in Scotland worthy to have a Summer of SamuelJohnson bestowed on it; but since he has done us that compliment, forheaven's sake inform me of your motions. I will attend them mostreligiously; and though I should regret to let Mr. Johnson go a mile outof his way on my account, old as I am,[532] I shall be glad to go fivehundred miles to enjoy a day of his company. Have the charity to send acouncil-post[533] with intelligence; the post does not suit us in thecountry.--At any rate write to me. I will attend you in the north, whenI shall know where to find you.I am,My dear Boswell,Your sincerelyObedient humble servant,'ELIBANK.''August 21st, 1773.'The letter to Dr. Johnson was in these words:--'DEAR SIR,'I was to have kissed your hands at Edinburgh, the moment I heard ofyou; but you was gone.'I hope my friend Boswell will inform me of your motions. It will becruel to deprive me an instant of the honour of attending you. As Ivalue you more than any King in Christendom, I will perform that dutywith infinitely greater alacrity than any courtier. I can contribute butlittle to your entertainment; but, my sincere esteem for you gives mesome title to the opportunity of expressing it.'I dare say you are by this time sensible that things are pretty muchthe same, as when Buchanan complained of being born _solo et seculoinerudito_. Let me hear of you, and be persuaded that none of youradmirers is more sincerely devoted to you, than,Dear Sir,Your most obedient,And most humble servant,'ELIBANK.'Dr. Johnson, on the following Tuesday, answered for both of us, thus:--'My LORD, 'On the rugged shore of Skie, I had the honour of yourLordship's letter, and can with great truth declare, that no place is sogloomy but that it would be cheered by such a testimony of regard, froma mind so well qualified to estimate characters, and to deal outapprobation in its due proportions. If I have more than my share, it isyour Lordship's fault; for I have always reverenced your judgment toomuch, to exalt myself in your presence by any false pretensions.'Mr. Boswell and I are at present at the disposal of the winds, andtherefore cannot fix the time at which we shall have the honour ofseeing your lordship. But we should either of us think ourselves injuredby the supposition that we would miss your lordship's conversation, whenwe could enjoy it; for I have often declared that I never met youwithout going away a wiser man.[534]'I am, my Lord,Your Lordship's most obedientAnd most humble servant,Skie, Sept. 14, 1773.' 'SAM. JOHNSON.'At Portree, Mr. Donald McQueen went to church and officiated in Erse,and then came to dinner. Dr. Johnson and I resolved that we should treatthe company, so I played the landlord, or master of the feast, havingpreviously ordered Joseph to pay the bill.Sir James Macdonald intended to have built a village here, which wouldhave done great good. A village is like a heart to a country. Itproduces a perpetual circulation, and gives the people an opportunity tomake profit of many little articles, which would otherwise be in a goodmeasure lost. We had here a dinner, _et praeterea nihil_. Dr. Johnsondid not talk. When we were about to depart, we found that Rasay had beenbeforehand with us, and that all was paid: I would fain have contestedthis matter with him, but seeing him resolved, I declined it. We partedwith cordial embraces from him and worthy Malcolm. In the evening Dr.Johnson and I remounted our horses, accompanied by Mr. McQueen and Dr.Macleod. It rained very hard. We rode what they call six miles, uponRasay's lands in Sky, to Dr. Macleod's house. On the road Dr. Johnsonappeared to be somewhat out of spirits. When I talked of our meetingLord Elibank, he said, 'I cannot be with him much. I long to be again incivilized life; but can stay but a short while;' (he meant atEdinburgh.) He said, 'let us go to Dunvegan to-morrow.' 'Yes, (said I,)if it is not a deluge.' 'At any rate,' he replied. This shewed a kind offretful impatience; nor was it to be wondered at, considering ourdisagreeable ride. I feared he would give up Mull and Icolmkill, for hesaid something of his apprehensions of being detained by bad weather ingoing to Mull and _Iona_. However I hoped well. We had a dish of tea atDr. Macleod's, who had a pretty good house, where was his brother, ahalf-pay officer. His lady was a polite, agreeable woman. Dr. Johnsonsaid, he was glad to see that he was so well married, for he had anesteem for physicians.[535] The doctor accompanied us to Kingsburgh,which is called a mile farther; but the computation of Sky has noconnection whatever with real distance.[536] I was highly pleased tosee Dr. Johnson safely arrived at Kingsburgh, and received by thehospitable Mr. Macdonald, who, with a most respectful attention,supported him into the house. Kingsburgh was completely the figure of agallant Highlander,--exhibiting 'the graceful mien and manlylooks[537],' which our popular Scotch song has justly attributed to thatcharacter. He had his Tartan plaid thrown about him, a large blue bonnetwith a knot of black ribband like a cockade, a brown short coat of akind of duffil, a Tartan waistcoat with gold buttons and goldbutton-holes, a bluish philibeg, and Tartan hose. He had jet black hairtied behind, and was a large stately man, with a steady sensiblecountenance.There was a comfortable parlour with a good fire, and a dram went round.By and by supper was served, at which there appeared the lady of thehouse, the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald. She is a little woman, of agenteel appearance, and uncommonly mild and well-bred[538]. To see Dr.Samuel Johnson, the great champion of the English Tories, salute MissFlora Macdonald in the isle of Sky, was a striking sight; for thoughsomewhat congenial in their notions, it was very improbable they shouldmeet here.Miss Flora Macdonald (for so I shall call her) told me, she heard uponthe main land, as she was returning home about a fortnight before, thatMr. Boswell was coming to Sky, and one Mr. Johnson, a young Englishbuck[539], with him. He was highly entertained with this fancy. Givingan account of the afternoon which we passed, at _Anock_, he said, 'I,being a _buck_, had miss[540] in to make tea.' He was rather quiescentto-night, and went early to bed. I was in a cordial humour, and promoteda cheerful glass. The punch was excellent. Honest Mr. M'Queen observedthat I was in high glee, 'my _governour_[541] being gone to bed.' Yet inreality my heart was grieved, when I recollected that Kingsburgh wasembarrassed in his affairs, and intended to go to America[542]. However,